|
SteelheadSchool
SteelheadSchool.com
Adventure Travel - hosted trips
2009 Garden River Journal
By Don Dfishinfool Mathews
I am
fortunate to spend three weeks in Canada each fall in
paradise. The Garden River is located near Sault
Ste Marie just across the river from Michigan's upper
peninsula. If your into insane numbers of Salmon.
The Garden River is the place for you. It
undoubtedly gets the most prolific Pink Salmon run in
the Great Lakes chain. The Chinook salmon run is world
class equaling that of the famed Pere Marquette or
Salmon rivers. It also has good runs of Steelhead
and Coho. There are resident Bows and
Brookies. If your lucky you might even land a
Atlantic salmon on the Garden. The Garden River has
beautiful spawning habitat and it is a fish factory.
All of the fish you catch are wild..!! It's no
surprise that several world record fish have came from
the Garden. What makes the Garden river so special
is the total lack of crowds. Un-pressured salmon are
much better customers. The Garden flows thru land owned
by the Ojibaway Garden River First Nation. They strictly
control access to their lands and only those accompanied
by a sanctioned native guide can enter the reserve.
We use Ben Belleaus team of guides for the peak of the
Salmon Run each year on a continuing basis. This
assures us private access to the best sections of
stream. Ben limits limit our group to 15 anglers and
he sets up a camp
along a remote section of the river. With over 18
miles of stream to fish, solitude is easy to come by.
I invite you to check out this journal of our 2009
adventure. If your interested in joining us on the
Garden give me a call..!! Good Fishin..!!
Don
September 11th
2009 What a day. Finally I’m in Canada..!! Four
hungry guys just cooked huge NY strip steaks on an open
fire in the remote Canadian bush. With no
silverware to be found we ate the succulent steaks with our bare hands, all the while
sharing Crown Royal straight from the bottle. It’s good
to be a man once in awhile. The we around the fire
tonight was my good friend and fellow fly fishing guide
Jeff Novak, our native outfitter Ben Belleau, and his helper
Gilbert.
It’s our sixth year up in Canada, the years
just seem to fly by the older I get. One constant in my
list of fishing destinations is the Garden River Canada Trip, I
look forward to this adventure all year long. The
Garden River is my favorite
place in the whole world. I should be dead tired now but
I’m so excited to be here I can’t even sleep. Ok so
maybe it was the six Monster energy drinks I chugged
down this afternoon. The reason we ate the steaks bare
handed is the silverware is buried at the bottom of one
of dozens of Rubbermaid tubs strewn about the scene and
we were to worn out to hunt it down in the dark.
I’m sitting in the cook tent now just feet from the
river in the glow of the Coleman lantern typing on my
laptop. It is very quiet. except for the
gentle rustling sounds of the water. Occasionally I can
hear Salmon splashing. I'm sure the next three
weeks will be a adventure..!!
Don and Ben ready for another salmon run on the Garden
river
We arrived at
Bens bait shop in the town of Garden River at 8:00 this
morning after an all-nighter from Ohio fueled by strong
coffee. We had
more coffee at Bens house while he waited for a large group of
guys, that were coming up for a weekend. Ben
guides other groups of anglers before we arrive but he
only guides our group from Sept. 14th thru 29th each
year. This assures our group the best sections of stream
during the peak of the run. After some
catching up with Ben and his family, we unhooked the
trailers and we were back on the road again. We had some
shopping to do in Sault Ste Marie. It was agreed
we would catch up latter with Ben out in the bush.
After Peno’s Bakery for some goodies and the new Super-Wal-Mart got a
sizeable chunk of our US dollars we showed back up at
Bens Bait Shop so our escort could guide us out to the
bush camp. We were surprised to see Bens truck
still in the drive. Seems the guys he had scheduled
before us were -
no-shows ? I'm
a guide so I know how bad it is to get stiffed and it
was apparent Ben wasn't happy. We had a beer to
lighten the mood then off we went for the bumpy ride out
into the bush…Or, should I say not so bumpy Ride.
As a matter of fact the road is in the best shape I have
seen it in during my six seasons up there.
Ben's
Sign on Highway 17B
The logging company is cutting just out past
Native Lands and they agreed to fix up the road and
bridges for access rights to haul timber across the
reservation. It shortened the ride to about 50 minutes
to our bush camp at the Claybanks. Most of the ride out
to camp is very scenic
but you can’t see the river from the road. As we finally
near our camp we come to a spot where you can stop and
see the river, the natives call this spot the Causeway. Jeff and
myself hurried down to the water eager to spot some
fish. To our surprise we spook four eagles who were
sitting in a nearby tree but we pay them little
attention because we also see the fish..!! Not a bunch,
but a pod of fresh Pinkys blast by and there are several
kings on the beds at the tail-out of the pool. We turned
and high five. Salmon season is here. We have the
traditional cold beer while we make our plans for the rest
of the day.
Bens Bait
and Tackle is located in the town of Garden River.
They sell Ice, snacks, cold drinks, and fishing
tackle. He also has a nice double launch ramp in
the St. Mary's river. There are campers available
for camping and boat docks.
We jumped in the
trucks for the last three miles of road, as we pulled up
to the camp we are greeted by Bens Son and our good
friend Little Ben. Congratulations are in order; he’s a
proud new dad. He has that proud dad look going on but
the most apparent change I notice about little Ben, is
he’s all decked out in the latest fly fishing wear.
Looks like he could be in the Orvis catalog. It
seems he’s doing more guiding now, I can see why..!! As
we talk he’s frying up a huge skillet of fried fish over
an open fire and in the next skillet over is another
huge skillet full of fried potatoes. Man that beats the
crap out of the Wal-Mart subs I sometimes bring on my
guide trips. It also makes it tough for me to start
unpacking.
They
don't take kindly to trespassers on the reserve
As we reminisce a couple of little Ben’s
guide customers get lured up from the river by the
delightful smells. It was Gordy from Missouri, he’s been
fishing with Ben from years and we run into each other
every year. Only difference is this year they are
carrying a strange looking Salmon. Ben quickly spots it
as an Atlantic. He catches them all the time in the St
Mary’s river but seldom does he see one in the Garden.
As of the late are a few Atlantics finding the low
pressure of the Garden River and its fertile waters a
better place to spawn than the St Mary’s rapids in the
Soo. It’s the first Atlantic I have ever seen in the
Garden but something tells me it will not be my last.
The guys reported there are fresh fish around but not
huge numbers yet. Seems the unseasonably warm weather
has kept many of the fish staging at the river mouth.
Another side effect of the warm weather becomes apparent
while we talk. The mosquitoes are out. Every year frost
kills off the Canadian soldiers just before we
arrive. We always pack bug spray but have never had to
use it. Until this year. There hasn’t been a frost yet
and the bloodsuckers are still around. Thank
goodness for that easy to reach can of deep woods Off in
my truck tool kit. We let the guys get to the
feast Little Ben prepared.
A rare September Atlantic from the Garden River
September 12th
2009
We slept in a bit this morning and we woke to a
beautiful sunny day. Not much color in the woods yet.
Looks like it’s going to be a late fall. Kind of
funny because after the cold-rainy weather they had in
late August, I have been worried sick the runs would
come too early. Ben’s guests have been on the fish for
weeks now. We wasted no time in finding the silverware.
Shortly after Bens helper Gilbert is cooking bacon and
eggs. The smell of the bacon just hung in the air
as it cooked. About then Ben comes pulling up,
people have a way of showing up once the bacon starts
cooking. He had a nice steelhead on the front rack
of the quad. He couldn’t resist dunking a few sacs in
the Clay pool before he joined us for breakfast.
Jeff, Gilbert, and myself resist the urge to grab our
rods and head to the river for a great day of fishing.
Tonight we had a fire down
here at the river. This year Ben put the sleep tents in
an opening he cleared about 100 yards from the
stream. He did this so the guys could turn in early
without being disturbed by the sounds around he
campfire. Tonight is another quiet night with crystal
clear skies, it’s much cooler than last night. The
weather radio is calling for frost tonight. I almost
feel guilty throwing another log on the fire. I know the
work Ben and Gill put into cutting, splitting and
stacking the massive pile of wood before me. Life is
good.
September 13th
2009
We had another busy morning but Jeff did bust out a rod
before breakfast to school a few Pinky’s and a King.
This afternoon I walked around the camp thinking
back about past trips and how much the camp has
improved over the years. The Honda generator is so quiet
it’s amazing. There are miles of extension cords and all
the tents have power now. Just having electric
lights and a place to plug in camera battery chargers in
the tents is going to be so nice. Bens new tents laugh at
40 mile an hour winds and heavy rains. Not like some of
the earlier trips when we spent the day tightening
tent guy lines. I had planned
on doing some fishing before heading out of the bush but
Bens brother Bob and his wife Connie were out taking a
ride and they stopped in to see Ben. I ended up spending
the afternoon sitting around shooting the breeze with
Ben’s family. Bob makes his living logging in the bush
and he is an avid outdoorsman. I did some trapping in
my youth and I spent countless hours reading Fur fish
and Game magazine articles about running winter trap
lines in the North Country. There I was sitting next to
a guy who does it. It was so interesting to hear the
methods he uses to trap in such brutal winter
conditions.
Riverside
campfire ring
As anxious as I was to catch a few fish I
sat around way too long. I got a
call from some of the guys who had just got into town.
They are staying at the and it’s right across the street
from Wal-Mart. So I join them in the lounge. It’s my
first time at the Watertower Inn and I’m impressed with how nice
it is. Best hotel I have seen in the Soo. Dr Nate flew
in on the U.S. side and Rich flew in on the Canadian
side. Both had no problems with their flights. We have a
lot of guys flying up this year. I’m turning in early;
it’s kind of hard for me to be excited tonight. My wife
took our only daughter to Ohio State today and I missed
it.
A very
unusual salmon from the St. Marys river in front of
Ben's shop
September 14th
2009
Excitement filled the air this morning as we pull out of
Bens and head for camp. It’s a small crew for the first
leg. Ben had four guys cancel out but at
least he had plenty of advance notice from them. Three
of them are going to come next year. The ride was smooth
and we stopped at the Causeway and saw even more fish
than yesterday.
Fish
On..!!
As soon as we get to camp Dick Keagy
just about runs me over getting to the river, if I could
only get him to move that fast when he’s doing guide
trips for me. Grinning.. Dick is deadly with his fly rod
and he did real well on the fresh salmon today. He has
been to the Garden River several times before and he
prefers the first leg and the fresher fish. He was
giggling like a little kid as he told stories about the
ones that got away around tonight’s fire. . It was
steak four nights in a row for me I think I better do
some walking tomorrow or I might just outgrow my waders
before I leave.
Camp dinning
tent just feet from the water
A fresh run
"Humpy" or male Pink salmon
The Crystal
clear water in the garden is perfect for sight fishing
September 15th
2009 As we were having breakfast this morning Ben and
Gill pulled up on the quad runner. They told a tale of a
huge King Salmon longer than Bens arm. Ben was casting
some sacs in the Claypool with his 11 foot noodle rod.
He was hoping to entice a tasty rainbow or steelhead. He
hooked into a monster they claim took 45 minutes to
land. He said it would easily be the big fish of the
trip and he released it. I pointed out that someone else
might land it also. Ben quickly said we will know his
fish because will be the one with the white spot on its
tail ?? We disqualify Ben’s catch from the big fish
competition when we find out Gill fought it twice while
Ben took smoke breaks. IGFA rules clearly state only one
angler can touch the rod. After breakfast Jeff and
myself walked up to the Ivory Bluffs to catch a few.
There are quite a few fish right above the camp and we
tried a few of them without success. It wasn’t long
before Jeff was ahead of me. At a river crossing, I
spoted a nice pod of Pinks, hiding up along the far bank
in the shadows. There must have been thirty fish and you
could hardly even see them. I had been playing around
with different flies down below and I had on a Suppenski
Wiggle Hex. Matt showed me this pattern years ago. It
uses a piece of a heavy latex glove for the wing case.
This stiff latex seems to act like a bill and you should
see he wiggling action on this fly when the current hits
it. I casted above the fish and it only took a second.
Fish On. The pinks took a liking to the wiggle stone and
I must have caught half the fish in that pod. It was a
great day for me but after doing some walking around the
numbers of fish aren’t up to the norm. With that being
said Rich from Charlotte landed 18 today on the fly so
there are plenty of fish to be caught. Still a few
Mosquitoes around and having to use bug spray is a pain
in the butt. I’m hoping it gets colder while Nate from
Miami is hoping it will warm up. He has been cold since
he got here. Having been in Florida most of August I can
see why. I had to light the heaters in the tents
tonight.
Rich came
all the way from North Carolina for this fish
Watch
those teeth
Dick
Keagy with a nice Garden River King
September 16th
2009
We had a light frost last night. Nighttime low went to
34* on my thermometer. We had the heater pilots on
in case anybody needed them. Ben just hooked up small
bottles instead of the twenty pound tanks. The first
person I see this morning is Doug from South Eastern
Ohio. He just looks like an outdoorsman; just seeing all
the gear he brought lets me know Doug is no stranger to
camping. I ask Doug how he slept. He tells me he was a
little warm most of the night. Then sometime in the
early morning the temp got comfortable but it was hard
sleeping after that. It seems the sound of Nates
chattering teeth kept him awake. Hmm..That must have
been about the time the 1 lb bottle ran empty and the
heater went out..OOOPs..!! Nate never complained at all
today but I lit the big Kerosene heaters tonight and
nobody is getting cold. Nate has been swinging
flies with his switch rod and I had the chance to cast
it a little today. He has it lined with a Skagit Line,
it’s perfect for the Garden River and next year I’ll
have one with me. There were noticeably more Kings
rolling in the Clay Pool today and I caught a few that
were super fresh but we need rain bad. I have yet to see
any dead fish in the river at all. We ate stuffed
Monterey chicken breasts tonight with mounds of handcut French fries.
To top it off we had grilled veggies, Fruit Salad,
Blueberry Pie, Cherry Pie and whipped cream. After
dinner everybody sort of rolled over to the fire ring.
The hard maple burns so nice . It was a pleasant evening
around the fire tonight and I can still hear Dick and
his Son belly laughing like kids out there. Only thought
that comes to mind is it’s good group of guys to share
paradise with and I’m glad I hid my bottle of Crown from Dick.Grinning...
Sleeping
tents at the Garden River
A chunky
wild Garden River bow that fell for a glo bug
Your Garden River chef at the grill
September 17th
2009 I have a new friend in camp a seagull has been
hanging out next to the cooking tent all day long. At
first he sat down at the corner where Gill cleans fish
but now he is bold and has edged his way upriver to our
tent. He just sits by the edge of the river and waits.
He watches everything we do. He doesn’t miss a thing.
Someone nicknamed him Fred. We had French toast, eggs,
potatoes and sausage for breakfast. The guys were light
eaters and Fred scored big. After breakfast we loaded
up in the 4 by 4’s and took a field trip. We went
upstream and did a couple of mile walk thru. Our Indian
guides fished for steelhead on spinning gear while we
fly fished for the salmon. We found fish but in all
honesty there were more right by our camp. It was nice
to hike thru a beautiful section of river though. It got
windy and I kept thinking I was hearing a horn, It turns
out the big Rock bluff to our North was called Horn
Mountain. The Natives call it that because when the wind
hits it right it sounds like a horn. There were at least
a dozen bright kings in the pool in front of the cooking
tent all day long and there are noticeably more fish on
the flats upstream from camp. You can probably see 30
or 40 kings and as many Pinks within 50 yrds of our camp. Some are
spawning but most are holding tight along the banks.
Every deep hole in the river has fish in it. I used the
two handed rod today and I got some awesome Pinky
strikes. Had my best success swinging the articulated
patterns. Some of the Kings the guys are getting are very
nice fish. In the 20 lb+ class. Mosquitoes are still
around a little but I didn’t use any bug spray today.
Fall is in the air. It’s started as a light rain this
afternoon and it’s raining steady now. This has everybody
pumped up, as it hasn’t rained a drop since August 29th.
Little Ben tells us the fish are jumping everywhere in
the lower Garden River.
September 18th
2009
I slept in a little this morning. This will be the first
groups last full day in camp. Everybody was up
early this morning and from all the hooting and
hollering coming from around the bend I knew the fish
were on the move.
I turn on the weather radio and they report
that we got 1/4 inch or rain yesterday. The Garden
River can handle inches of rain before it muddy's up,
Yesterdays rain only brought up the river a few inches
but that was enough to put a bunch of fish on the move.
Everybody was quick at breakfast, hurrying to get back
to fishing. We had some visitors today, a few of
Bens friends and family were out four wheeling and they
stopped by to say hi. I got to meet Ben's brothers
Bob and Guy and they were a hoot to talk to. We
sat around B.S.ing most of the afternoon and I was
absolutely fascinated to hear the stories these guys
told about hunting, trapping and just plain surviving in
such a wild place. Few people in the states can
grasp how remote and vast the area is. They
treated me like family and it was a great day.
September
19th 2009
A group of 15 anxious anglers gathered outside Ben's
bait shop this morning. It was a brisk night and there
is frost on the windows of my truck. That should put an
end to the last of the mosquitoes. Jeremy and Tanaya got
coffee on and manned the bait shop while the guys
stocked up in ice and last minute supplies.
Everything went smooth and we were on our way shortly
for the one hour drive to the camp. The leaves are
starting to change quickly now and the firery orange and
reds on the maples make the ride enjoyable. We
make the traditional stop at the Causeway and there are
quite a few more fish in the stream. we can easily
count 30 undisturbed Chinooks from our vantage point on
the road. While we watch several pods blow thru and this
even excites the guys more. So we pile back into
the trucks for the last couple of miles.
.JPG)
Don Dfishinfool
Mathews on the Garden River
Lets Go
Fishin..!!
|
Dfishinfool's fly shop
